Late-Summer Refresh & Succession Planning
How to keep your garden productive as the season winds down
By late summer, the garden can start to feel a little... tired.
The lettuce has bolted. The cucumbers are taking over. Some beds are half-empty after harvest, and the weeds are making a comeback. You might be tempted to call it quits, chalk it up as a win (or a learning year), and walk away until fall.
But hold on—this is one of the best opportunities to squeeze more food out of the season and set yourself up for success next year.
A few simple steps can bring new life to your garden, fill those empty spaces, and turn your summer slowdown into a second wave of harvests.
What Is Succession Planting?
Succession planting means planting new crops in the same space as others finish up. Instead of letting the soil sit bare, you put something else to work.
Done right, it:
Maximizes your harvest window
Reduces weeds and erosion
Keeps your soil biology active and healthy
Gives you food well into fall—and sometimes even winter
Even if you’ve never done it before, it’s easy to start. Late summer is the perfect time to try.
Step 1: Take Stock of What’s Done
Start by looking at what crops are finished or winding down. This might include:
Lettuce that bolted in the heat
Peas or bush beans that stopped producing
Garlic or onions already harvested
Potatoes you’ve just dug up
Clear out spent plants (compost what you can), loosen the soil lightly, and top with a fresh inch or two of compost or aged manure.
This gives your next round of crops a clean, nutrient-rich place to start.
Step 2: Choose Quick-Growing or Cold-Tolerant Crops
You want crops that can mature quickly or handle cool temperatures. Some great late-season options include:
Greens: Spinach, arugula, lettuce, mustard greens
Root veggies: Radishes, turnips, carrots, beets
Herbs: Cilantro, dill, chervil
Brassicas: Kale, broccoli raab, bok choy
These can often be direct-sown, especially if your soil is still warm and your days are long enough.
If you’re unsure, check your first frost date and count backwards from the crop’s maturity time. Many of these crops can handle light frosts or even improve in flavor as temperatures drop.
Step 3: Water, Mulch, and Shade (If Needed)
Late summer can still bring hot, dry days. Protect your new seedlings:
Water consistently—young seeds and starts dry out fast.
Mulch lightly to hold moisture without smothering small sprouts.
Provide temporary shade (row cover, garden fabric, or even an old sheet) during peak heat to prevent stress.
Once they’re established, many fall crops require less attention than summer ones—and often have fewer pest problems.
Step 4: Keep It Going
As you harvest new crops in the fall, you can plant again if the weather allows.
Sow spinach or mache in early fall for overwintering.
Cover bare areas with clover or a winter cover crop to protect soil.
Save some beds for garlic or overwintering onions in late October.
Each little step now reduces your workload next spring.
Don’t Forget Containers and Raised Beds
Smaller spaces are perfect for a late-season refresh. Try sowing salad greens in containers, fall herbs in raised beds, or radishes between rows of slower-maturing crops.
Succession planting isn’t just for large gardens. It works wherever you’re growing.
Final Thought
Just because summer’s winding down doesn’t mean your garden has to. With a little planning and a fresh layer of compost, you can stretch the season, reduce bare spots, and enjoy fresh harvests right up to the first frost.
Gardening is a cycle. And this time of year, you’ve still got plenty of growing left to do.